subscribe to the RSS Feed

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

TFSA – Part I: Misconceptions

Posted by Canadian Dream on January 13, 2010

Today is the first of a three part series on TFSA’s from our guest blogger, Robert, who provided such an interesting debate on his first guest post that we brought him back.  Enjoy. – Tim

We are now in the New Year and the RRSP season is upon us. But this year, like last, we now also have a new opportunity to contribute to a tax-free savings account (TFSA). I think that this is an ideal time to begin thinking about how a TFSA contribution might work for you.  Today, I will address many of the misconceptions I’ve heard regarding TFSA’s. In the next installment, I will suggest some of the best uses for a TFSA. Finally, I will recommend some strategies where a TFSA makes most sense.

The first, and possibly most common, misconception about a Tax-Free Savings Account is that it is a savings account. This is understandable. I can think of a couple good reasons why it was named as it was, but the name can be confusing. A more appropriate name would have been either tax-free plan, because a TFSA is closely related to an RRSP. It is an account, specially registered with the government and held in trust by a trustee. It can hold any eligible investment and it has rules about deposits and withdrawals. Just like an RRSP, you can hold either a directed (basic) or self-directed TFSA. In the case of a directed TFSA, the options are limited to those offered by the financial institution. This is almost always a high-interest (currently around 1%) savings account. But any brokerage can open a self-directed TFSA for you. This especially makes sense if you have other investment accounts, such as a self-directed RRSP, already. If you open a self-directed TFSA, you can hold a high-interest savings account within it. Or you could choose GICs, stocks, bonds, preferred shares, mutual funds or cash in any proportion. One caution: although foreign currency is an eligible holding, I don’t know of any brokerage that will hold it for you, outside of a trust (such as a mutual fund or a savings account).

The second misconception is related to contribution room. I have had people ask me to open an account for them, indicating that they won’t be making a deposit this year. When I ask why, they explain that they want their contribution room to accumulate and not be lost. In fact, you don’t need to open a TFSA in order to accumulate contribution room. Contribution room accumulates for every adult Canadian (over the age of 18) each year. In 2009, we each had $5000 of contribution room. In 2010, we  each have another $5000 of contribution room, and it will accumulate each year by $5000, increased by the rate of inflation in $500 increments. Unused contributions can be carried forward and, unlike RRSPs, withdrawals result in new contribution room. Here’s an example. Richard turns 20 in 2013, and now has $15,000 TFSA contribution room. He opens an TFSA and deposits a gift of $15,000 from his grandparents. He uses it to buy mostly dividend-paying stocks, but also one small mining company recommended by an uncle. Richard is very lucky, and by 2014 the mining company shares have tripled in value. The new value of the TFSA is $20,000. Richard takes out the $20,000 to buy a home. Remember that he has $5000 more contribution room from the current year. In 2015, on his notice of assessment, Richard will see that he has $30,000 TFSA contribution room: $20,000 from the withdrawal in 2014, plus $5,000 for each of 2014 and 2015. Notice that the withdrawal actually gave Richard new room, since the market value was greater than the cost.

On a related note to the above misconception, it is possible to open as many TFSAs as you like just like an RRSP. The government allows each adult $5,000 contribution room each year, and it is your responsibility to ensure that the total of your contributions doesn’t exceed the limit. I recommend only having a single TFSA, for simplicity.

The final misconception is that RRSPs save more tax. RRSPs and TFSAs both save taxes, but in different ways. For an RRSP contribution, you receive a tax deduction and possibly a refund. That is not the case with a TFSA. However, with the TFSA, withdrawals are tax-free, whereas you will pay taxes on the full amount of an RRSP withdrawal. If you are in the same tax bracket at the time of the contribution and the time of the withdrawal, you would save the same amount of tax either with an RRSP or a TFSA. Let’s look at an example. In 2013, Martin contributes $15,000 to an RRSP and gets a tax refund of $5000, which he invests outside the RRSP. Over the next 7 years, his accounts double to $40,000 and he makes a withdrawal. After taxes of $10,000, he is left with $30,000. Martin’s sister, Mary, contributes $15,000 to a TFSA, taxes already paid. Over 7 years, the account doubles to $30,000, which can be withdrawn tax-free.

The misconceptions about TFSAs that I pointed out make the account more valuable than some people realize. It is a useful tool that makes saving and investing easier. Next time, we’ll look at some of the best uses for TFSAs. In the comments, please share what you have learned about TFSAs or what you consider to be little-known facts.

Robert is a Certified Financial Planner (CFP®) in Calgary who develops financial plans and also gives objective advice regarding all types of savings and investment products. He believes that not having money worries can allow people to spend their time in other meaningful areas of their life. Robert is married, has three children and is involved in his church, in his community association and in the school. Robert is on track to retire at age 42, although he and his wife plan to change careers and work for the benefit of children.

My Spending Vices (And What I Do About Them)

Posted by Dave on January 12, 2010

I started writing this post while somewhat hungover after a night out in Toronto with friends from University that included a bar that had 343 different kinds of beer on it’s menu.  This was an expensive night (with that many different flavours, I felt it was my duty to try to get through as many as I could) that I don’t regret (other then the tiredness and sore head in the morning) and got me thinking about other things that I buy or spend money on that I know are a waste of money and are counterproductive to my end goal of retirement at 45, but I do anyway because of various justifications.  Over the years, I have also learned how to limit the amount of money I spend on these activities in order to at least have some semblance of budgeting with my vices, which are as follows:

Video Games: This “hobby” is probably my most expensive habit.  I own an XBox 360, Wii and Playstation 3, which means in total, I have approximately $1,000 worth of hardware that all play essentially the same games (in my defense though, the PS3 was a wedding present).  Trent at the Simple Dollar gave tips on how to reduce the cost of video games by buying only games that have long-time playability, reducing your cost per hour to a minimum.  I don’t have an attention span long enough to continually play a game for months and months and after I have beat it, I rarely feel the need to return to it to play it again.  Up until a few years ago, this meant that I would be trading in games for 25% of what I bought them for to get new games, something that is not entirely desirable.  Now, I spend $17 per month and rent games over the internet through zip.ca.  I pick the games I want to play and the company mails them to me as I mail them back.  This allows me to play several more games then I normally would for a flat fee, thus limiting the expensive ownership cost of the games.  The only downside of the service is that I never know what game I’m going to get, which is kind of interesting sometimes.

Golf: I love to golf.  If I had a choice, I would spend most of my summer wandering around courses in the area.  This is a very expensive hobby as well, with equipment and usage costs, a person could spend significant amounts of money over a season.  I have limited my costs in couple of ways:

  1. I golf in the evenings, utilizing “twilight” deals offered by most public courses in the area.  For most courses, it works out to 25-50% just by starting the round later.
  2. I limit golf equipment spending.  I limit club purchases to at most one per year.  Golf balls can also be expensive, but you can find deals online on used balls.  In my experience, a $0.20 golf ball will go just as far in the bush, or just as deep in a pond as one you’ve spent $1-$3 on.  Last year I bought 10 dozen used balls for $30 + $10 shipping.  These should last me several years and work just fine.
  3. I budget year-round for this hobby.  I could fix the playing cost by purchasing a membership, but in general unless you play 50+ rounds at the same course during the day, it doesn’t work out to be cheaper then paying on a per-round basis.

Gambling: This vice actually costs me the least amount of money per year, and actually allows me to make a little bit of profit on a per year basis [If I pick the right teams, which I didn't do yesterday when I went 1 out of 4 in the first round of the NFL playoffs :(   ].  I found a gaming site that accepts bets as low as $1 per game and use this, reducing my risk, while still allowing a wager on the game, which is really all I want.  Profitability is uncertain, but if bets are researched (similar to stocks), I think that a skilled person could make decent long-term profit through betting.

Beer: I’ve been led to believe that most people also enjoy beer (unless I’ve been watching too many football games), which can get expensive to drink in Canada where alcohol and tobacco are taxed significantly.  This year, I am going to start brewing my own beer, mainly because I enjoy making most things from scratch, but also because I believe if I learn to do it well, it could lead to some cost savings down the road, after purchasing the equipment.  Right now, I just drink cheaper beer, after finding a few brands that I enjoy (I’m not sure if it’s available elsewhere in the country, but I would highly recommend Brava Light). It would be healthier to give up beer altogether, but it is something that I enjoy occasionally, and it’s just tasty :) .

How about you, what are your vices?  How do you fit them into your financial plan?

Getting What You Want: An Ebook Reader Review

Posted by Canadian Dream on January 11, 2010

I love books, so to me when I hear about these new ebook readers I decided I wanted one.  At first I thought about justifying to myself, saying it would be great for trips, but I really don’t travel that much.   So in the end, I just accepted that my inner geek and book loving self just wanted the damn thing.  Enough of a reason for a want item.

So then I started to save for one and decided I would buy it after Christmas.  This strategy was two fold, one it would buy me time to research and buy exactly what I wanted and the second was to allow me some time to save up some cash for it and use some Christmas cash for it.  It also had a bit of a third benefit as competition in the field heating up leading to Christmas which helped drop the prices.

So in the end I bought an Sony Touch Edition just after Christmas and the new toy arrived on Jan 6th, so after a few days of use I’ll provide my initial thoughts of the ebook reader.

  1. Formats matter.  I primary went with a Sony because I wanted access to a larger number of file formats including: PDF, Word, RFT, and epub.  That last one, epub, was a big one since it allows me to download books from Google Books or other sites that have some free downloads.  It was also important because my public library has ebooks in that format as well.  The Kindle doesn’t do epub, so you are stuck buying your books at Amazon.
  2. Touch Screen is good and bad.  Buying the touch screen version of Sony’s reader offered my the ability to make hand written notes on my ebooks and save them.  So I can take a quiz on a book right on the page just like a regular book.  The downside of the touch screen is you end up with a bit of glare on the reading surface.  So you have to watch the angle you are reading at, this isn’t a problem with a non-touch screen version where the page looks more like a page.
  3. No eye strain.  I read for about two or three hours on Sunday and I have no eye strain at all.  The text looks like a book on a grey sheet of paper.  So the great thing about an ebook reader is the ability to read electronic copies of things for long periods.  I like this fact SO much I’m now trying to get half of my weekly School Board packages in electronic format instead of the two inch double sided paper copy I normally get (so hopefully I would be down to a mere one inch pile in the future).
  4. Compact.  I’ve already expanded the default memory of 512MB with a 4G SD card.  Why? Because it is very cool to be able to have hundreds of books on one device.  The default memory will store about 300 to 350 ebooks, so with my expansion I can now handle about 2700+.  So far I’ve only put on about 20 or so, but I’m still testing out the features like the fact I can also play mp3 files on this thing which will eat up some memory.  So I can listen to music and read when I take the bus all on a single device that weighs less than a hard cover book.

So overall I’m fairly damn happy with my purchase so far and I can see really using this thing a lot in the future.  Yet I had plans for one of these a while ago, since I’m the kind of guy that reads four books at once having all in the same place without having to carry them all will be helpful.

Yet at $350 plus tax for the device, it isn’t cheap but ebooks are cheaper than the new hard cover editions.  For example, Dan Brown’s latest goes for retail $37, my wife ordered it on sale at $22 and the ebook version is $12 at Chapters.  So if you buy a fair number of new release books you might save money in the long run.  In my case I don’t care, I bought it mainly for point four above.  Any questions?